Getting back to my V2.2

[Orlando Frets]

Hi everyone:
I'm finally getting back to complete the build on my V 2.2
After batting several iterations with eye surgery in my left eye and winding up with a detached retina and my eyesight not fully regained in my left eye, I have learned to use my right eye to the extent I can now land on the runway. Prior to this, I would miss the runway by 20-30 feeet.
I have decided to continue building my BM 2.2, all the cores have been sheeted, capped and sanded. Remaining is the fuselage and the completing work.
My question is what engine is mount is being used. I plan to use my new YS 140L. Any suggestions. I do not have a problem with installing a nose ring and re-inforcing the cowl to do so.
Thanks.

Orlando

[RBeaubien]

I'm using a YS 140DZ and a Hyde AR type mount and reinforcing the cowl with a couple of strips of carbon fiber for the nose ring per Mike's instructions. You should be fine with the same setup.

Sorry to hear about the eyesight issues and glad you aren't letting that stop you from flying.

I have all the flight surfaces sheeted, capped and sanded and right now I'm working on the canopy. Once that is done, I'll start by hanging the wings, then stab, then fin and finally the cowl and belly pan.

[petec]

I'm using the Hyde ARI mount for both of mine and I am running the 1.40L as well. The big selling feature for me is the integrated nose ring since I am covering my fuselages with Ultracote and making the cowl removable.

[Orlando Frets]

Hi everyone:
I have been working on my V2 and am at the stage where I am begining to align the wings and install the adjusters. Progress has been some what slow but steady. However, will be concemtrating my efforts to complete it soon. I may have it ready to Tangerine contest at the rate I'm going now.
I'm surpised as to how light this airplane is turning out. The plane really is turning out simple to build.

[petec]

My second one is sitting waiting for me to set finish the sanding on the capping on the wings and stabs. The first is still in the process of getting covered.

Looks like my WB60 is going to be the plane I fly for St. Clairville and Comair.

[Orlando Frets]

Well after a couple of years working on and off, my BM is now ready for primer. The fuse is glassed using 3/4 oz cloth and laminating resin. The wings arew covered wwith 001 silkspan and doped with "MinWax Brushing Lacquer". Same stuff as clear dope. It even smells the same. However, does not contain Toluene as dope does. It is thinned using lacquer thinner and dries in about 20 minutes. In my opinion, the surface seems to dry a bit harder than clear dope. Adequate ventilation is a must, it really is potent. Breathing aparatus makes things easier to apply.

I plan to apply the Acrylic primer in about 7 days; and paint using single stage acrylic lacquer. Dries to a bright shine. I have used this before and provides good coverage and is light, one being careful.

[petec]

Originally Posted by Orlando Frets

Well after a couple of years working on and off, my BM is now ready for primer. The fuse is glassed using 3/4 oz cloth and laminating resin. The wings arew covered wwith 001 silkspan and doped with "MinWax Brushing Lacquer". Same stuff as clear dope. It even smells the same. However, does not contain Toluene as dope does. It is thinned using lacquer thinner and dries in about 20 minutes. In my opinion, the surface seems to dry a bit harder than clear dope. Adequate ventilation is a must, it really is potent. Breathing aparatus makes things easier to apply.

I plan to apply the Acrylic primer in about 7 days; and paint using single stage acrylic lacquer. Dries to a bright shine. I have used this before and provides good coverage and is light, one being careful.

Let us know how the minwax works out for you....I'm getting ready to do a pair of VF3s and if I can find this stuff easier than dope I'm in.

[Orlando Frets]

Well I finally have three coats of the MinWax Brushing Lacquer on the wing panels. The laquer dries to a harder surface finish than clear dope. Goes on very easy and requires less amount on every coat. It subsequently dries even faster. I found though it requires a little pressure to sand. However, wet sanding is easier and better finish producer I found. Breathing aparatus is a must, it is strong stuff unless you doit out of doors. My wing panels after silkspan and three coats of lacquer weighed 10.3 ounces and 11.1 ounces.
I believe the stuff could be thinned a little more than 50%. I useed 25% thinned first coat to lay down silspan and do initial cover. Subsequent coats thinned to 50%.
I would definately used this method again with the minwax. I also understand some people are using polycrylic; must provide a really hard surface.

[MikeA]

Orlando,

I'm getting ready to silkspan my stabs & rudder and was wondering if Klass Kote or automotive type paint will spray over this Minwax ok? It's hard to beat the old nitrate dope method but if this stuff is harder and accepts the above paints I might giver a try.

MikeA

[petec]

I was looking into the polyacrylic and decided to go dope on my VF3. The polyacrylic, though harder, seemed to be heavier. While doing the research on the poly I came across a lot of info on the brushing lacquer, a lot of warbird and scale guys are using it so I would not worry about the adhesion of the primer.