Custom designed radio controlled competition aircraft and accessories!

Question: Ok how does it fly? How does it stack up against other planes?

Answer: You'd be hard pressed to find a plane of ANY price or origin that flies any better. The VF3 has been thoroughly tested and changed and comes from a long, extensive line of designs from Mike Hester. This plane has been tested through the FAI 2011 sequences and shows NO weaknesses. In fact, it does some things that have to be seen or experienced first hand.

Q: So where does the plane excel?

A: The VF3 presents extremely well. It's VERY large (by today's standards) and has an extremely unique drag profile. The plane is very well balanced in it's areas and force distribution. One thing to be aware of is that the fuselage side area is almost as much as the wing itself. The plane rolls like nothing else. Slow rolls are like cheating. With enough speed, no rudder correction is needed. Knife edge loops require no stick correction until the final quarter, and even then only if it's a very tight loop. Large Pattern style knife edge loops can be done with rudder and throttle only.

Integrated rolling manuevers in the FAI sequences were of primary concern. We wanted to design a plane that makes flying the figure M with integrated roll on center (bottom) as easy as could possibly be. (for example). We have definitely achieved this.

One other thing we worked hard on is the way the plane handles in the wind. Especially the bumpy turbulent kind. This was achieved by going with somewhat thicker flying surfaces and thicker trailing edges, coupled with a very clean overall design. Look around the world today and you'll see how many other designers are taking this direction. It works! in fact it handles wind possibly better than anything else currently available. Previously unheard of in a plane of this size. Does this mean it's a piece of cake to fly in the wind for a beginner? Not really, you still have to wind correct. but it does take some getting used to, because it takes so little. A little correction goes a LONG way.

The downlines are as slow as you want them to be. We have found ourselves having to ADD power in downlines. This is a great benefit as the plane doesn't wallow and leave itself to the mercy of the wind, but drives through and penetrates while giving the pilot plenty of time to work the manuever. Be advised though, if you are used to flying a small, fast plane, this takes some getting used to.

What this means is that now you can use an inexpensive 2 stroke and not have to worry as much about finding a prop to slow the plane. Let the plane do the work!

Snaps are extremely clean. Breaks and exits are almost a given.

If you're looking for a plane that can take you all the way to the very top, this is the one! And I say that with the utmost confidence.

Q: So it sounds like you have designed the perfect plane! What's the story on mix? Any dirty little secrets?

A: Perfect? Nope. But pretty darned good. Pattern design is dynamic, ever changing. I get teased about the version numbers sometimes. But that's because if I find something that makes the plane better, I don't wait for a new plane...I share it immediately. The VF3 will be no different. It has already undergone one change to the fin/rudder before release. If we manage to isolate and correct anything else, we will change that too. but so far, I haven't found anything I would change.

Mix is standard, but pretty low. The new red one I just flew took 3-4% of up elevator to left rudder, nothing to the right, and 1/2% down elevator to absolute idle for downlines. But it has to be a LONG downline for it to pull even slightly. Most pilots could easily fly this plane with NO MIX, which is exactly what I was trying to achieve. But for masters/FAI level competition, a very small amount of the 2 mixes I just listed might be necessary.

Also due to the sheer size of the rudder and fuselage, a good bit of right thrust is required. if you actually keep adjusting the thrust until it's right, you'll end up with a silly number. And if you do, inverted flight will require a good bit of correction. my solution is to use the standard 3 degrees of right and use rudder trim and/or rudder mix to throttle to compensate. You really have to be splitting hairs to even notice this, but anything less that perfect between the poles is unacceptable to me.

Yeah, I'm pretty happy with the monster we've created!

Q: Ok so what's in the kits and what do I still need?

A: This is always in flux because I'm always looking to give you guys a better plane for the buck. But right now, I have a few versions available:

Basic kit: Includes a very complete laser and CNC wood package, precision cut and matched foam cores, and all of the composite parts (canopy, cowling, scoops and chin cowl). Also included are the PDF drawing files and a builder's guide (constantly being updated). You also get access to the owner's support forum where I post the files, updates, etc. These are some of the best supported planes in the world.

Pro Kit: All of the above with carbon laminated key parts. I frequently get asked "what's the reason for the difference in price?" Answer: carbon. That crap is expensive. There REALLY IS over $200 worth of carbon in every kit. However, for strength, rigidity, longevity and just plain coolness, it can't be beat. this is the way I do all of my pro built planes so I thought I'd share this with you as well. If you want a plane for the long haul, this is the option for you.

Electric kit: This is one we're always working on. Electrics are evolving, and so far there is no real tangible standard. The electric kits are engineered and thought out to the nth degree. One thing you may want to consider: because of the drag profile of this plane, the old school 22x12 set up won't cut it in the wind. You need to think pitch and penetration. you also need to think power and lightness. The electric version was designed with the heaviest, strongest set ups in mind. Specifically, an AXI 5330 outrunner and 5000mah 3lb + packs. The firewall is a special laminate that is specifically designed to mount an outrunner on an Esprit style stand off mount, or "X" mount. If there is any drawback to this at all it is this: frequently check your bearings. While the tests have shown no unusual bearing wear, the theory and possibility does exist. But at this point I am not prepared to give it much credibility. It may depend on the quality of the bearings themselves.

Sheeted Kit : These kits contain all of the above plus cores sheeted, plus ALL wood needed to complete the plane. No more shopping for sheeting! Due to the erratic availability, electric sheeted kits are only available by special order and subject to the availability of quality wood. All of these kits are made to order and subject to lead times and availability.

What you still need for the non-sheeted kits:

Q: Ok, I know you guys say it's easy to build, but I've never built a plane like this. What's the real scoop?

A: Best answer is to ask someone who has built one. These kits were designed with the beginner in mind. All parts are tabbed to they just slip together. The fuselage was designed so it could be built on a flat table with a straight line drawn on it. Draw one more at the wing tube location 90 degrees to the center line. Place the fuse sides over the center line, insert the wing tube socket and plug in the formers. Align the factory etched center marks and adjust the wing tube until you're ligned up. Now, hit it with CA and that's it. The most critical part is done. Everything else is just finishing out.

Truthfully half of the work is in sheeting the cores. Once that's done, the fuselage can be built in a few days, ready to finish. I have completely built one of these in 6 days, and finished through clear coat in 8 more. It just doesn't get any easier. one person told me, "It's not the easiest building pattern plane, it may be the eaiest building plane PERIOD". I'm inclined to agree!

Q: I noticed your planes are glassed and painted. Can it be done with monokote?

A: Absolutely! IN fact the prototype is all monokote. Just realize that the wood is hand picked and very soft, so it won't be nearly as durable. I will have very detailed glassing and finishing instructions available, so if you follow these directions to the letter, don't be afraid of this process! The only thing I would caution you about is that the plane has a LOT of surface area. Don't be shy with the sandpaper. if you let primer etc build up, you'l add a lot of unneccesary weight. But the shape of the plane was designed for block sanding with a minimum of compound curves, so this is really not a problem at all.

Q: Anything special I should know?

A: Maybe. I would say first of all, a 140 sized engine is marginal on this plane. It will work, but you may be somewhat handicapped in the upper classes. I designed the plane for the YS 160 or 170, the OS 200, or the OS 160 2 stroke. For electrics, it was designed for the AXI 5330. The plane requires a good bit of weight on the nose to balance properly, as it has a very long tail moment. This hasn't been an issue this far, but I have built a few in various configurations so I know it could be a nightmare if the right combination of things are present. Specifically, if you used an OS 140, on a Hyde ARA mount, with 2 servos in the stabs for elevator, and got heavy with the paint. This could be a problem. So be aware of this from the first moment you touch it, and you'll be fine.

Also if you're using a YS DZ, be advised that I have worked with Merle Hyde to come up with the right combimation for this plane as far as mounts. The mount of choice is an "AR80" which you have to buy directly from Merle. Other mounts will work, but the combination of this mount, a venturi, and the soft mounted hatori muffler make for the smoothest, most quiet YS set up you have ever seen. This was not an accident. It WORKS!

Q: How much for you to build me one?

A: As much as I would love to build planes for everyone, I simply don't have the time. I can refer you to some "certified" builders, but please be advised of 2 things: It's not that hard to just do it yourself (and argueably much more rewarding), and they coud be expensive.

If you have any other questions, pleae email me at: kerlock@comcast.net or call me, my contact info is elsewhere on this site. Thank you!

-Mike